Water, water, every where

Being vegetarian in Ubon has been interesting so far. Specially for someone who is not particularly adventurous, coy when it comes to exploring and an overall shy and docile character. Sometimes you get that sinking feeling.

I've been told many times, that Isan (north-eastern region of Thailand) does not know the meaning of the the word vegetarian. Even during the vegetarian festival, the food is not truly "vegetarian". They love their pork. And they love their fish and oyster sauce.

There is food everywhere you look around. Carts on the streets, restaurants, restaurants, restaurants, cafes, bakeries... Barbecued meat on sticks, soups, noodles, rice...even salads - but nothing that I can eat. And those who know me, know that I can EAT. I saw a raisin bun the other day but was warned that the "floss" on/in the bun was pork.

I have met a few people - colleagues and strangers - who have been very nice and have tried to help me find foods that may work for me or have tried to teach me what to say or ask for. Colleagues who know Thai have told me what phrases may help (Ask for "Ahan Jai", say "mangsawirat" for no meat, "mai sai nam plaah" for no fish sauce). Another colleague Google translated phrases and printed them out for me. Two girls I met at a cafe thought about what foods I may be able to eat and told me what to ask for (Pad pat - Jai - fried vegetables - "jai", Kai jiao - omelette, Pak bung fai dang - fried morning glory). One of the Thai teachers at the school has even offered to take me to places where I can get veg food next week. Let's see how that works out.

I've learnt the phrases, but it doesn't always work. People here have a habit of not understanding (or trying to understand) you if you look like a foreigner (farang), no matter how correctly or clearly you say it. I know a guy who's been here many years and even reads Thai, who is sometimes looked at with contempt for his knowledge of the language. I got all excited over a "cheese and spinach" bun at a bakery and specifically asked "mangsawirat?" before the lady put it in a bag for me. I open it later and what do I find? ...*sigh*. But I did point to fried vegetables in a menu once and ask for "jai". I also added "mai sai nam plaah" for effect and got boiled vegetables (in a little broth that I pray was only flavoured with soy sauce - I didn't taste anything fishy there). So small success there? Hopefully. Maybe I should try to convince the lady at the cafe downstairs to make me a veggie sandwitch...

I've heard tales of a temple run restaurant that makes vegetarian food, but until I find it, I'm sticking to fruit, ice cream, random things from 7-eleven and stuff I've cooked(!) myself.